You can buy all the makeup in the world, but if you don't know how to use it, it won't do a whole lot to help you. Rocio Matos, director of education at the Blushington beauty counter at Le Parker Meridien in Manhattan, shows how you can erase a few years with some strategic makeup tricks, demonstrated on Phoebe Farber, 53, of Montclair, NJ. Follow these step-by-step tips to recreate this fresh-faced look at home. (Lose up to 25 pounds in 2 months—and look more radiant than ever—with the new Younger in 8 Weeks plan!)
1. Prime your canvas.
Older skin tends to lack moisture, and makeup can stick to dryer patches, causing blotchiness. Skin may also just be more uneven in general. Start with a glycolic acid peel to remove dead skin cells (Matos uses Dr. Schultz's BeautyRx Peel), and then hydrate skin and even out your complexion with a moisturizing primer, such as L'Oréal Paris Revitalift Miracle Blur Oil-Free, using a clean makeup sponge. Don't forget to prime the eyelids, too, to neutralize any redness or discoloration that can make eyes look tired. For that reason, Matos recommends a primer that doubles as a color corrector, such as Laura Geller Spackle Treatment Even Tone Makeup Primer, which has peach tones to counteract redness.
2. Open the eyes.
Heavy lids can make eyes look sleepy. Matos creates the illusion of depth in the lids by brushing a wash of light brown shadow into the crease (try FLOWER Endless Wear Eye Color Ultimate Eye Color in Sheer Buff). For instant I-got-8-hours-last-night, she also lines the waterline of the lower lid with a cream-colored pencil and dabs a little bit of light shimmer shadow to the inner corners of the eyes. "It makes them look bigger, brighter, more awake," she says. Champagne shadow—shiny but not glittery—goes onto the lids for extra pop.
3. Add a frame and a fringe.
Our brows get sparser as we age, so filling them in softly with a pencil or shadow can create a youthful frame for the eyes. "Always follow your natural shape," Matos advises. "If you draw too much under the brow, you'll look exhausted, and if you go too far above, you'll look unnaturally surprised." Matos lined Phoebe's eyes in soft brown liner, which is more natural-looking than black, especially for daytime.
And never skip mascara, which really opens up the eyes. More important than the formula you use is the wand—ideally it's not too big and is a little spiky so that you can reach the smaller lashes and separate them. One to try: By Terry Mascara Terrybly.
4. Get glowing.
Whether you choose a cream, liquid, gel, or mousse foundation, go for a slightly dewy finish, as matte formulas can settle into fine lines and draw attention to them. Matos prefers a tinted moisturizer, like Urban Decay NAKED Skin One & Done Hybrid Complexion Perfector, which offers coverage but isn't heavy or cakey. "You want to apply just enough to look fresh and even," she says. "Even tone is a sign of youth." Dab the tinted moisturizer lightly all over your face using a damp makeup sponge. Follow with a color corrector for any dark or red spots—apply with a brush so you're not rubbing, tugging, or pulling on the skin. Concealer goes on top only where you still need it, like under the eyes and around the nose.
5. Sculpt with color.
You can highlight your cheekbones and slim the face without mastering the fine art of contouring. Using a fluffy brush, simply sweep a powdered bronzer along the hollow of the cheekbone, slightly underneath the bone. "Always blend upward to look lifted," Matos says. "If you blend down, you'll look saggy." Add bronzer around the perimeter of your face, under your hairline and around the jawline to create definition, which we tend to lose over time. Blend down from the jaw so your neck matches your face. Matos recommends a mineral bronzing powder instead of a stick or liquid because it's finer, so it goes on lighter and lasts longer. Try CIRCA Picture Perfect Powder Bronzer.
6. Perfect your pout.
Lips tend to deflate a bit as we age, so to plump yours up, Matos recommends using a lip liner to overdraw them ever so slightly. "Extend the color just below your natural lip line in the center bottom and center top of your lips," she says. If your lips are thin, stick to neutral tones (she likes B.Lovely by Blushington) to keep the attention focused on other features, like your sparkling eyes or great cheekbones. If you have full lips, go for bold reds, oranges, and plums. Fill in the whole lip with liner—whether you top if off with a lipstick or not—to make the color last all day.
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